15/07/2014

Victorian Capelet Tutorial

In this tutorial we are going to make a fully lined capelet and its pattern.


Materials: 
-Light weight cotton fabric in 2 colors. I used 2 pieces of 150 cm x 60 cm.
-Ribbon: 2 pieces of 58 cm each.
-A cropped jacket (for measuring and making the pattern)

1.Making the pattern: 


Lay the jacket on a piece of tracing paper. Buttons should be closed and the collar rolled inside. Curve one of the sleeves to give it an u-shape, as seen on the right side of the picture above.  Decide also how long you want the capelet to be. I decided for 34 cm, from the neck down, on the back.
Mark the middle line. 
Mark around the jacket edges. 
From the lowest point of the middle line to the curvy edge (marked outside the sleeve) I took 6 cm off to give the capelet bottom its curvy shape.

  
On the top of the pattern I marked 2 cm down x 10 cm along and made a curve to make room for the neck. These measurements depend on the size of the jacket you are using to make the pattern, and were taken by measuring the neck of the jacket itself!


After tracing, these were the measurements that I found for the back pattern.


For the front pattern I copied the back pattern and made the neck marks by measuring the distance from the shoulder seam to the lowest part of the front neck of the jacket (mine was 5 cm).



Now trace a curve starting from this point to the upper neck marked on the back pattern.




I traced a softer line on the outside part of the patterns to take the bulk out of the shoulders.
I also marked a dart of 1,5 cm x 4 cm on the back pattern. 
You will know if you need darts when you try the pieces on before sewing the shell and line together.


Cut the excess of paper and the pattern is ready: 
For the back cut one time, on fold. 
For the front cut 2 pieces. 
Give 1,5 cm for seam allowance on all edges. Pin and sew the pieces together.


At this point you should try the pieces on and make adjustments if necessary.
The darts are made to help the capelet to fall on the shoulders with a natural look. How deep or big the darts are and how many of them are needed,  you will find out by trying the pieces on.

Now the capelet shell and lining are ready to be sewed together. I also sewed the darts on the back side of the outside fabric.
In the inside fabric I sew just one dart in the middle (1 cm x  4 cm), as the inside (lining) should be a little bigger than the outside so the final product doesn't look stiff.


Now alight the right sides together and pin. 
Pin the ribbon between the 2 fabrics on both sides. I placed the ribbon 1,5 cm down the neck line.



Trim excess of fabric, alight the seams together and sew: first the front seams and neck line.


Sew the bottom seam, but leave a gap so you can the capelet turn inside out.


Snip the corners to make them sharp.


Turn inside out and smooth the edges.
Iron the capelet.


Hand sew the open gap.


Then, its done!